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A Taste of Old Japan Second Leg - Traditional Japanese inns and hot springs on the Izu Peninsula
"A Taste of Old Japan" related links:
- General information about the town of Shimoda: |
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It's
time now to say goodbye to the modern, urban wonder that is Yokohama and head
for the remote villages and hot springs of the volcanic Izu peninsula.
The Izu peninsula juts out from the main Japanese island just east of Mt. Fuji, and is
considered to be one of the most scenic and pleasant areas in all of Japan.
Being so close to the great volcano that is Fuji-san, means that Izu is rife with
volcanic hot springs and frequent (though normally mild) earthquakes. Hot
spring resorts called onsen have been a feature of Izu since medieval
times, as have traditional Japanese style inns called minshuku
where guests can stay and enjoy true Japanese style lodging, cuisine and
hospitality.
To get to Izu you will need to first catch a taxi from your hotel to Yokohama
train station. Just
tell the doorman at the hotel where you want to go and he will inform the taxi
driver. It's important to note that you do not need to tip the doorman or
taxi driver (or anyone else for that matter) in Japan. They don't expect
it and will likely feel uncomfortable if you offer a gratuity. Also, when
approaching Japanese taxi cabs watch out for swinging doors. Japanese cabs
have levers which the driver can use to automatically open and close the
left-rear door of the
cab. This sometimes confuses foreigners who are startled to see the doors
opening and closing all by themselves, or who try to grab at the handle as the
door magically swings open.
Japanese taxis are an experience in themselves
as the vehicles are normally kept spotless by the proud drivers who themselves are
immaculately dressed in professional-looking uniforms (white gloves and all).
Japanese cab drivers are a proud lot who, though they may drive fast, take good
care of their customers and never cheat or overcharge. You are always in
good hands in a Japanese taxi. When you get to Yokohama station, find your
way to a ticket office (not hard to find) and buy a one-way train ticket to the town of
Shimoda.
Located
near the tip of Japan's rugged Izu Peninsula, the small town of Shimoda sits
nestled within a small and very beautiful protected harbor. You will need
to change trains once or twice from Yokohama to Shimoda so check with the
conductor if you are unsure where to get off. Also, be careful as the
train may split in two at some point with one half of the train going to Shimoda
while the other half heads off in another direction. Again, check with the
conductor to make sure that you are on the right "half" of the train. Your
first train from Yokohama will be a standard Japanese JR (Japan Rail) electric
train. When you switch trains you will ride on a smaller, more quaint
train which runs on tracks which hug the coastline along the rocky and rough
east coast of the Izu peninsula (this is the train that may split). This is a very stunning and beautiful ride so be sure to
keep your camera handy.
When you
at last arrive in Shimoda you will have the option of staying at another fancy
western style hotel or at a more traditional Japanese style bed and breakfast.
These latter inns are called ryokan and minshuku in Japanese
(foyer photo at left). The difference being that ryokan are Japanese
style hotels with all the modern conveniences while minshuku are true
traditional style inns. While ryokan may be as large and fancy as a modern
Tokyo hotel, minshuku on the other hand are usually very small places which may
be family owned and operated and are favored by Japanese and foreigners
nostalgic for a taste of old Japan.
While minshuku will have electricity
and running water they may otherwise be little different from the types of
places which once sheltered kimono-clad travelers of old. You will even be
provided with your own very light and comfortable kimono-like robe called a yukata,
which is meant to be worn in your room and
around the inn. Minshuku are notoriously inexpensive and you will likely
be surprised
when
you see the fantastic banquet (normally included in the price of the room) which
will be delivered to your room at dinnertime each evening. The meal is
pure Japan, with tiny plate after plate of seafood delicacies as pleasing to the
eyes as they are to the palate. We've included links below to various
English language websites which provide information about lodging in Shimoda.
If you are not comfortable living
like the Japanese (sleeping on the floor and making your own bed, using a
Japanese style toilet and eating raw fish) then we recommend one of the
western-style hotels. On the other hand, if you wish to experience old
fashioned Japanese lodging and dining then we suggest you make arrangements to
stay at a ryokan or minshuku. Either way, your stay in Shimoda should be
very pleasant and relaxing. 
On a
historical note, the town of Shimoda was made famous during the
19th century when US warships, under command of Commodore Matthew Perry, anchored in
the village's small harbor. The arrival of these "black ships" as they
were called, was to mark the beginning of the end of the Japanese feudal
era and the opening of the country to the outside world (for several centuries prior
the
Japanese only tolerated contact with the Chinese and Dutch and then at only
a few southern ports). After Perry's negotiations in Edo (present day
Tokyo) were complete, the port of Shimoda was of the few Japanese ports
initially made accessible to all outsiders. The people of
Shimoda are
very proud of this fact and you will spot black ship replicas everywhere
throughout the town as well as a full sized black ship replica at anchor in the
harbor (photo above). Fans of the author James Clavell might be
interested to know that Izu was the domain of the fictional warlord Kasigi
Yabu in the book Shogun, and the area where the book's main
character, Blackthorn was shipwrecked.
There are many things to see and do in Shimoda in
addition to enjoying the experience of staying in a true Japanese small town.
Be sure to take some time to stroll the waterfront, especially in the evening,
and to visit small
stores and shops where you will likely be treated very well
by pleasant and happy shopkeepers. Don't forget that Izu and Shimoda are
famous for their many traditional Japanese hot springs or onsen as they
are called in Japanese. Check with your innkeeper for their
recommendations of the best onsen to visit.
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